Parangtritis Beach {What to do in Jogjakarta}
I think we may have accidentally discovered the best little day trip from Jogjakarta. Prepare yourselves for a hot travelling tip you guys: Parangtritis Beach. It's way cooler than you think. (If you go on a weekday.)
Parangtritis Beach
Parangtritis Beach is about an hour’s drive from the city along a well paved road bordered by fields glowing green with rice. It doesn’t really get much love on the tourist circuit, really. A lot of writing seems to say, meh? Its okay. But I think it is better than okay. I think it was one of my favourite day trips from Jogjakarta, and okay, possibly my favourite day out in about forever.
Parangtritis beach itself is incredible: wide, and fairly clean with dark, soft sand. There are some dramatic cliffs and huge boulders on the eastern side of the beach. The western side is edged by huge dunes that are worth a bit of exploration on their own. Crashing waves almost as tall as a grown man pummel the shore, and throw off a light mist, shrouding the cliffs and dunes in a mysterious haze. It’s all quite dramatic and a bit intimidating.
There’s a legend of the Queen of The South (Nyai Roro Kidul) an aquatic deity who governs the dangerous waters of South Java. According to myth, she claims the souls of whomever she pleases, and she is especially fond of fisherpeople and handsome young men. Locals warn against wearing green to Parangtritis, apparently that's a sure way to get snatched by the queen. I'm all for science and stuff, but you can bet I made sure no one in our party wore so much as a stitch of green.
Parangtritis beach is too dangerous for swimming, be it because of Nyai Roro Kidul, or maybe because of the combination of incredibly powerful waves and dangerous rip currents (science!!!). I was reluctant to let Stella venture even ankle deep without close supervision. Let me reiterate. The waves really are powerful. The current is really are strong. I almost got knocked down standing about calf-high in the ocean. Thank goodness I didn't have to worry about Hugo. His major sand phobia kept him safe in our arms.
So, swimming is out. But! Still. There’s lots to do. We took a horse cart ride along the beach which was a clear highlight for Hugo. The horses were really well cared for: glossy coats and well groomed. The carts were also really solid, well built and actually pretty new looking. Which is remarkable. It was really an incredible way to gaze out at the ocean and those towering cliffs.
The sand is great for digging and building. Really soft and lovely. (Though sticky!!! But don't worry, after beach time you can take a shower in the little warungs opposite the beach for about 40 cents a pop.) It’s also so peaceful just staring out at the crashing waves. Which is basically how I spent a good hour and a half.
When it was time for lunch, we tried out the the local fish market at Depok Beach where you can buy fish super fresh and have it cooked any way you like. But alas. Ramadan. No fish market.
Instead drove a bit further East towards the Queen of the South Resort, with very low execrations. I mean, rural Indonesia, right? But guys, we were blown away. Here’s this amazing resort, with a beautiful infinity pool, lush balinese inspired landscaping and and a view out over the indian ocean, a decent restaurant, and it’s totally accessible for day trippers. We paid about six or seven dollars a person to enter, and had full use of the facilities.
So, there you have it. A perfect day trip out of Jogjakarta. Spend the morning at Parangtritis. Lunch at the Queen of the South. Lounge a bit. Then, time permitting, explore the dunes on the west side of the beach.
Here are a few pictures from our day out, if that's your thing. :)
If You Go:
- Parangtritis Beach gets slammed on the weekends. I would recommend avoiding Saturdays and Sundays if possible. On weekends it's practically deserted, and about 100 times more delightful.
- Really, really, don't swim. It's absolutely not safe. No, seriously.
- Food options along the beach are not that amazing, that is unless you love pop mie noodles. So, maybe bring some snacks along.
- A horse and buggy ride along the beach will cost about 50 000 to 100 000, and it's well worth it. Super fun.